Our environment is so overwhelmed with chemicals; gardens and fruit trees dowsed in toxic insecticides, suburban areas with their pristine emerald lawns sprayed with synthetic herbicides and fertilizers. This may keep your plants bug free and richly green but at what cost? The continual use of such products builds up in the soil, poisoning the earth and contaminating water sources. Beneficial creatures that live in the soil die leaving the ground truly dead and useless. More additives are then needed to encourage growth from your plants, it is a vicious cycle you get into and you still have all of these pests! Pest populations are now out of balance, despite your liberal dosing of pesticides, because the birds, bats, toads and beneficial insects such as ladybird beetles (ladybugs), lacewings and spiders have been killed off or driven away by lack of food. When the pests return their natural predators are long gone.
Companion planting is a chemical-free method to a healthy garden. It entails planting certain flowers and herbs with other plants, trees and shrubs. These companion plants then help to keep pests away or help promote the growth in one or both of the plants.
Some faster growing varieties of vegetables might produce nitrogen in the soil that will feed their companion or a particularly pungent herb might drive away pests that usually snack on their companion. Planting fragrant flower and herbs will bring in bees and butterflies which will help with pollination. One example of companion planting is the Native American’s “Three Sisters” which consists of corn, beans and squash. In this instance the beans produce nitrogen which is used by the corn.
As for the pairing of plants, I would recommend keeping on hand a copy of the book Carrots Love Tomatoes by Louise Riotte; it is a wonderful and detailed source for finding which plant goes well with what. There are certain plants that just do not do well together so it is always nice to have something handy before you plant your garden. For example, if you plant onion next to peas you will find that neither grows very well, planting dill near your carrots will insure that what few carrots you do manage to get will grow very poorly (I discovered this last year!). In other instances planting certain veggies near a bed can also introduce harmful diseases. Strawberries can spread a root rot fungus to tomatoes, potatoes and peppers. Be sure to not use any area that strawberries have grown for at least 3-4 years for planting these particular veggies.
The first and most easily grown companion plant is the marigold, this flower can be used anywhere. Planting these around the perimeter or in amongst the rows will help keep nasty pests away. Inter-planting marigolds and other suitable plants help by confusing the pests with their stronger odor. They cannot locate their target and therefore move on. Planting alliums, such as onions, chives or garlic, between rows of brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, etc.) as well as around rosebushes and fruit trees/bushes also works beautifully to keep pests* away and promotes growth in the plants. (*Japanese beetles, aphids, spider mites and weevils) Nasturtium is another flower that helps your garden, like the marigold they keep bugs away from your veggies, especially squash. The following is a basic guide to companion planting.
Plants |
Grows well with |
Repels |
Keep away from |
Beans-Bush |
Cucumber, Radish, Peas, Potatoes, Celery, Summer Savory, Corn, Strawberries, Carrots, Leeks, Beets |
Beetles from Corn |
Fennel, Onions |
Beans-Pole |
Corn, Radish, Summer Savory |
|
Beets, Fennel, Onion, Cabbage family*, Sunflower |
Beets |
Bush Beans, Onion, Cabbage family*, Sage, Corn, Leeks, Radish |
|
Pole Beans, Mustard, Fennel |
Cabbage Family
* Broccoli, Kohlrabi, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Kale, Cauliflower |
Beets, Bush Bean, Celery, Cucumber, Onion, Lettuce, Potato, Mint, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme, Dill, Peppermint, Chamomile |
Mint, Sage, Rosemary repels cabbage moths.
Thyme repel cabbage worms |
Strawberry, Pole Beans, Tomato, Fennel |
Carrots |
Chives, Rosemary, Sage, Radish, Lettuce, Bush Beans, Leek, Onion, Pole Bean, Parsley, Tomato |
Sage, rosemary, Leeks and onion repel carrot fly |
Dill, Fennel |
Celery |
Bush Bean, Cabbage, Leek, Tomato |
|
Fennel |
Corn |
Beans, potatoes, peas, squash/pumpkins, cucumbers |
|
Tomato, Fennel |
Cucumbers |
corn, peas, radishes, beans, carrots, sunflowers |
|
Potato, pungent herbs, Fennel |
Garlic |
Roses, herbs (for large production of oils in plant), tomatoes, fruit trees, many flowers & vegetables |
Repels Aphids, Japanese Beetles and many other pests |
Peas, Fennel |
Lettuce |
Basil, Tomatoes, Beans, Beets, Carrot, Strawberry, Cucumber, Radish |
|
Fennel |
Onion |
Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Lettuce, Tomatoes |
|
Beans, Peas, Fennel |
Peas |
Beans, Radish, Carrot, Corn, Cucumber, Lettuce, most pungent herbs |
|
Garlic, Onion, Fennel |
Potato |
Horseradish, Flax, Beans, Corn, Cabbage, Borage |
Borage repels Tomato Hornworms Horseradish repels potato bug |
Pumpkin, Tomato, Squash, Sunflower, Cucumber, Strawberry, Fennel |
Pumpkin |
Corn, Nasturtiums, Borage, Beans, Radish |
|
Potato, Fennel |
Spinach |
Strawberry, Borage, Bush beans, Lettuce, Lettuce, Radish |
|
Fennel |
Squash |
Nasturtium, Borage, Radish, Cucumber, Corn, Onion |
Nasturtiums repel Squash bugs |
Potato, Fennel |
Strawberry |
Spinach, Lettuce, Onion, Pea, Bush bean |
|
Cabbage family*, Fennel |
Sweet Peppers |
Borage, Parsley, Onion |
Borage repels Tomato Hornworms |
Fennel |
Tomatoes |
Borage, Basil, Parsley, Carrot, Mint, Onion |
Borage repels Tomato Hornworms |
Cabbage family*, Corn, Fennel |
No matter the size or shape of your garden, by adding one or more of the above mentioned, even to a few of your plants, will yield an excellent result. It saves you money that may have been spent on pesticides or fertilizers, which without their use will help to nurture your yard’s ecosystem. You keep the toxins out of your body, yard and any nearby water source. Next year and each subsequent year you may notice that the pests aren’t as noticeable, your garden soil is richer and more viable and your neighbors are marveling at your beautiful gardens.
SOURCES:
Carrots Love Tomatoes by Louise Riotte Garden Way Publishing
Copyright © 2006-2013 Stephanie Lowell-Libby
Stephanie Lowell-Libby is a writer, a longtime organic gardener and former farmers’ market gardener living in New Hampshire where she is raising her beloved wee girl “Pixie” (who has recovered from her 2010 diagnosis Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia and subsequent treatment and is healthy and thriving once again). A photographer, passionate cook, genealogist, licensed massage therapist, reiki practitioner, aspiring homesteader and spends much of her time outside enjoying all nature has to offer.
3 comments
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April 9, 2007 at 4:22 pm
Trey Coffey
I am doing research for an Ecology class at Life University which we have to give a presentation. I grew a vegetable garden last year with many rewards being produced from that garden, although I did notice that our tomato and eggplant leafs were getting eaten up by some kind of green bug ( I thought I remember seeing little green caterpillars, no more than a half inch on them, but my girlfriend recalls seeing little green bugs). Do you know of any green bugs or any green caterpillars that do this? I heard that marigolds work as natural pesticides for some insects. I have chosen to do my presentation on marigolds as pesticides on caterpillars. It is tough to find scientific data on this topic. I was wandering if you could give some guidance on this topic about where I could find some scientific research and data. Thank you for your time.
Trey
October 19, 2008 at 1:29 pm
Julie Sedwick
Great Post I agree that companion planting is the way to go, I have been doing it for a few years now and it works well. I don’t know about scientific evidence but, experience is my proof. Thanks for the great post.
October 27, 2008 at 10:06 pm
Sally Worth
Too bad Julie can’t write the content on her website. Wonder whose information she used to create it. Just another affiliate marketer trying to cash in on other people’s work.